History of Wagyu 'Kobe'

Wagyu (pronounced 'wag-you') is a breed of cattle native to Japan and is considered one of Japan's national treasures. The Japanese word Wagyu can be translated to mean Japanese beef - as "wa" means Japanese and "gyu" means beef.

Characteristically, Wagyu beef is highly marbled. This means that the muscle is finely interspersed with monounsaturated fat. This marbling gives the beef its "melt in the mouth" moisture and tenderness. When cooked, the marbling dissolves and gives the meat its tenderness and flavour.

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Wagyu History

Wagyu (pronounced 'wag-you') is a breed of cattle native and unique in their genetics to Japan. The Japanese word Wagyu can be translated to mean Japanese beef - as 'wa' means Japanese and 'gyu' means beef. These cattle are vigilantly guarded by Japanese farmers.

The world famous "Kobe" beef brand is Wagyu beef that comes from the Hyogo Prefecture in Japan. Kobe is beef produced from male cattle, while the Matsuzaka beef brand (even more exclusive) is produced from female cattle. The bloodlines used to produce this beef are called Tajima.

The three most famous breeding strains - Tajima from Hyogo Prefecture, Itozakura from Shimane Prefecture, and Kedaka from Tottori Prefecture - in Japan.

Over the years many people outside of Japan have attempted to track down the history of Wagyu cattle and document it. This has led to a Western perspective of the history of Wagyu cattle. When it has been reported in Japan that performance was being sought through genetics gain, it has been widely interpreted as being beef production, when in actual fact it was performance as a draft or pack animal.

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What about the word 'Kobe' we hear so often?

No doubt you have heard of Champagne, that famous wine region in France, and the celebratory beverage that is made there. What you may also be aware of too, is that to use the name Champagne, the wine must be made in that highly specified region.

Not so with Beef. As a result, we hear the word Kobe used to describe all types of Wagyu. This is wrong. Kobe is a region within the Hyogo Prefecture, and is undeniably famous for its Wagyu beef. The bloodline is exclusively Tajima. However, only beef from the region Kobe should be called Kobe. Unfortunately, like Brie, Camembert and Cheddar in the cheese world, the name Kobe is not currently protected.

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How is Wagyu beef different to other Beef Breeds

The quality and flavour of Wagyu meat is different from other types of beef commonly eaten in Australia. Some may describe the beef as a smooth caramel / buttery flavour that is intensely sweet and delicate.

This tenderness and flavour results in Wagyu beef being labeled the premium quality grade. Prior to Wagyu entering the market, the Australian grading system was 0 to 6, with the best of the Australian breeds including Angus, averaging about 2. Since the introduction of Wagyu into Australia, the Australian grading system has been increased to 9.

We now have three distinctive different strains of Wagyu Cattle. These are Crossbred, Purebred and Fullblood. It is important that you know what the difference is.

Crossbreed (or F1) - This description is the largest selling style of beef that is produced and sold in Japan. It is the result of a Wagyu genetics (sire) being crossed with another breed (in Japan mainly Holstein from the dairy industry). The resultant beef must contain 50% Wagyu genetics. This beef is purchased for home consumption or served in family style of restaurants. Crossbred beef is produced using Wagyu genetics (sire) crossed with Angus or Holstein. Raised and processed correctly these cattle produce a superior product to that of their dams breed.

It is the branding of this beef as Wagyu that is causing confusion and disappointment to consumers. Crossbreed beef does not have the same eating experience as Fullblood Japanese Wagyu beef. In Japan, farmers are not allowed to use the term Wagyu when marketing crossbreed (F1) beef. Guidelines have recently been instituted to disallow imported Crossbreed (F1) beef using the term Wagyu to stop any confusion for consumer.

Purebred - The purebred Wagyu was developed as a result of the breeding of Fullblood or Purebred Wagyu bulls with the base cow such as Angus. From this initial mating, called a first cross, the heifer is retained and mated back to a Fullblood or Purebred bull. The progeny of this second mating results in the F2. The progeny from the mating then produces the 3rd cross and so on until four crosses have been made. This animal is recognised in the USA and Australia breeding programs as Purebred. It is not recognised in Japan (and is called a Crossbred) as it contains inferior genes.

Fullblood - This is the Japanese Black Wagyu that has not had any other breed introduced into their bloodlines. The Wagyu Association defines Fullblood Wagyu as "The offspring of a Wagyu Sire and a Wagyu Dam whose forebears originate from Japan and whose pedigrees show no evidence of any grading up from the base animals".